I just finished day four, mile 260, on the Natchez Trace Parkway about 4 hours ago. As a refresher, you'll recall the last time that I wrote, I was in Natchez, MS, getting ready to bike the 444 mile (I think I may have mistakenly said 422 earlier - don't want to short change myself) Natchez Trace. So far everything has gone a-ok; for the most part. I did get a flat at mile 21 (complicated further by a broken tire wrench, too), just as I was warming up, and I shared the road with an unhealthy number of other cars passing through Jackson at around mile 100, and then there was the rough road for about 20 miles past Kosciusko, MS (160 to 180) - and then, I can't leave out the ever so slight headwind that I've been up against the whole time that is driving me towards psychosis. But all in all, I'm doing alright.
The Half-Way Point, Crossed at Noon Today
The first day was the beast. 100 miles from Natchez to Jackson. About as flat as you can get through the swamps and river bottoms of southwest Mississippi. Along this part of the trace, landowners and other rich folk from Natchez expanded out of town and built schools and plantation homes. The trace is pretty heavily wooded through this stretch and liberally garnished with Spanish moss. I met up with a cousin of mine who I'd never met before in Jackson, MS - always nice to be able to link up with unknown family members, it gave me a more personal experience in Jackson.
The next day was by far the hardest. I only made it about 45 miles from Jackson when, stopping for lunch, I fell asleep in the grass and couldn't be bothered to finish up the 15 miles more I'd planned on biking that day to Kosciusko. So we got in the car and drove up to Grenada, MS to see yet ANOTHER family member. My paternal grandmother was from Alva, MS, just outside of Grenada, so that town has been a kind of epicenter for family gatherings that I never had the opportunity to go to as a kid. Finally in the neighborhood, I figured driving an hour off the trace was worth it to meet up with my cousin in town for fried catfish and then go see my great-grandparent's grave site in Alva. Being able to identify blood relations and genetic history to an area really makes it feel like home. It's given me more purpose as I've bicycled along the trace, reminding myself that these forests and river bottoms were familiar to my ancestors and that, by experiencing them, I was getting a little closer to them. It helps that I really am enjoying Mississippi. Forget the stereotypes, it's a great state and one of the most laid-back places I've ever been. Yes, even more laid-back than Austin, guys.
Great-Grandparents' Grave Site at Alva-Parker Cemetery
On Friday, I picked back up where I'd dozed off at mile 145 and rode about 35 miles before my legs just gave out. I wasn't recovering from the first two days and, along with a decline in the road surface quality, I cheated and had Mom drive me about 10 miles to Jeff Busby state park where we camped that night. Three things that bicycling magnifies are road surface quality, change in elevation and wind. Driving along in a car, you have to see pretty dramatic changes in any of these categories to notice a change in driving conditions, but on a bike, your legs (especially by day 3 or 4) are EXTREMELY perceptive of every little bump, shift in wind or increased graininess in the road. Up until mile 160, I'd enjoyed nice, smooth blacktop, but then it went to this really chunky asphalt with huge cracks and potholes in the road that slowed me down big time. Once I finally gave up and drove the rest of the way, I could barely notice the road condition. Same with wind. Standing there, you can't notice anything, but as soon as you start pedaling, you are very aware the slightest resistance. Wind resistance seems to increase exponentially with ground speed. It drives me crazy to be going along, getting buffeted this way and that and fighting against a wind, only to stop and experience absolute stillness. ARGH!
Finally, it's amazing how far I've gotten out of my little world in Austin, even though I only left about 10 days ago and am still in the same time zone. The US is a pretty amazing place with lots to explore. I keep reminding myself that this is only the very beginning.
Happy Weekend!
The Half-Way Point, Crossed at Noon Today
The first day was the beast. 100 miles from Natchez to Jackson. About as flat as you can get through the swamps and river bottoms of southwest Mississippi. Along this part of the trace, landowners and other rich folk from Natchez expanded out of town and built schools and plantation homes. The trace is pretty heavily wooded through this stretch and liberally garnished with Spanish moss. I met up with a cousin of mine who I'd never met before in Jackson, MS - always nice to be able to link up with unknown family members, it gave me a more personal experience in Jackson.
The next day was by far the hardest. I only made it about 45 miles from Jackson when, stopping for lunch, I fell asleep in the grass and couldn't be bothered to finish up the 15 miles more I'd planned on biking that day to Kosciusko. So we got in the car and drove up to Grenada, MS to see yet ANOTHER family member. My paternal grandmother was from Alva, MS, just outside of Grenada, so that town has been a kind of epicenter for family gatherings that I never had the opportunity to go to as a kid. Finally in the neighborhood, I figured driving an hour off the trace was worth it to meet up with my cousin in town for fried catfish and then go see my great-grandparent's grave site in Alva. Being able to identify blood relations and genetic history to an area really makes it feel like home. It's given me more purpose as I've bicycled along the trace, reminding myself that these forests and river bottoms were familiar to my ancestors and that, by experiencing them, I was getting a little closer to them. It helps that I really am enjoying Mississippi. Forget the stereotypes, it's a great state and one of the most laid-back places I've ever been. Yes, even more laid-back than Austin, guys.
Great-Grandparents' Grave Site at Alva-Parker Cemetery
On Friday, I picked back up where I'd dozed off at mile 145 and rode about 35 miles before my legs just gave out. I wasn't recovering from the first two days and, along with a decline in the road surface quality, I cheated and had Mom drive me about 10 miles to Jeff Busby state park where we camped that night. Three things that bicycling magnifies are road surface quality, change in elevation and wind. Driving along in a car, you have to see pretty dramatic changes in any of these categories to notice a change in driving conditions, but on a bike, your legs (especially by day 3 or 4) are EXTREMELY perceptive of every little bump, shift in wind or increased graininess in the road. Up until mile 160, I'd enjoyed nice, smooth blacktop, but then it went to this really chunky asphalt with huge cracks and potholes in the road that slowed me down big time. Once I finally gave up and drove the rest of the way, I could barely notice the road condition. Same with wind. Standing there, you can't notice anything, but as soon as you start pedaling, you are very aware the slightest resistance. Wind resistance seems to increase exponentially with ground speed. It drives me crazy to be going along, getting buffeted this way and that and fighting against a wind, only to stop and experience absolute stillness. ARGH!
Dispatch From the Road
Ok, enough about the finer details of bicycling. I could obviously go on about this for many more pages (I have lots of hours to think about these things while I ride). Today, all the factors were working in my favor and I made it 57 miles to the outskirts of Tupelo, MS. Remembering the harrowing 10 miles through Jackson three days before, I opted to drive into Tupelo to avoid the traffic. So, altogether, I've cheated for about 20 miles out of 260. There aren't any more towns between here and Nashville, so the cheating may be over, but I won't promise.
Finally, it's amazing how far I've gotten out of my little world in Austin, even though I only left about 10 days ago and am still in the same time zone. The US is a pretty amazing place with lots to explore. I keep reminding myself that this is only the very beginning.
Ben! I was just on the Natchez Trace camping last Labor Day. Some things that are nearby if you're still around and have time: Coondog Cemetary (http://www.coondogcemetery.com/), Tom's Wall (http://www.visitflorenceal.com/attractions/6-early-southern-culture), and Borroum's Drug Store (http://borroumsdrugstore.net/history.html).
ReplyDeleteTom's Wall is right off the trace -- it's a bit hard to find because I think the turn is unmarked. But as someone and I'm sure they can point you in the right direction.
Enjoy!